Back Story

Back in September 1987, I remember sitting my teenage butt down on the floor in front of our Mitsubishi console color television to be part of a resurrection. After nearly two vacant decades, a live action Star Trek television series would be back on the air. While I had seen every episode of the original series, I could not wait to see this new futuristic world that would be Star Trek: The Next Generation!

I continued to tune in every week through all seven seasons. The actors were fantastic, the stories genuine, and the special effects were ahead of their time. I enjoyed the show so much, I bought the DVD box set of each season as they were released. Today, I have the entire series in the remastered HD Blu-Ray format and it is even better! I can re-watch my favorite episodes, laugh, cry, and embrace the characters all over again. But, throughout it all, my heart always belonged to the beauty that was the NCC-1701-D Galaxy class starship, U.S.S. Enterprise.

When I later discovered that Andrew Probert was instrumental in the design of this version of the famous starship, it made total sense. He was behind so many of my young fascinations including Battlestar Galactica, the Back to the Future DeLorean, Airwolf, and TRON. I’ve built a few different plastic models of the Enterprise D in my past and owned a few toy versions, but nothing like what we are building on this site.

I heard about this huge 1:900 scale U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701-D partwork model via Eaglemoss in March 2019 and eagerly signed up. Then, it was abruptly ‘cancelled’ and returned to the design department. It turns out that the feedback for the pre-order release was really bad. Star Trek fans quickly called out the lack of windows along the saucer rim, the incorrect deflector dish, and many, many other errors.

In March 2021, the build returned with many of these issues addressed and, I have to say, it looks a lot better:

I am looking forward to completing this build and proudly displaying it in my collection. I also hope they extend the subscription at the end (like Eaglemoss tends to do) and we can convert our finished model into the amazing Dreadnought Enterprise D seen in this page’s header image. This was Riker’s ship in the series finale All Good Things and I feel it is the most insane of the Enterprises. Until then, I hope you all enjoy the ride and thank you for stopping by!

– MarvelPhx

The Models

Paramount used three different shooting models of the U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701-D throughout the television series run:

  • A two-foot model
  • A six-foot long model that could separate the saucer section, but was unwieldy to work with
  • A two-foot model that could also separate, but lacked as much detail and was easier to film at a distance
  • A four-foot model by the third season, more detailed and easier to handle than the first two

The Eaglemoss U.S.S. Enterprise is supposedly the best combination of all three in regards to colors and details.

Here are some stats about our model:

  • Die-cast replica
  • Over 27.5 inches (700mm) long
  • Over 21.5 inches (550mm) wide
  • Saucer can separate from the stardrive section
  • Painted to match the colors seen on-screen
  • Includes the ‘Aztec’ pattern hull plating design
  • Authentic decals pre-applied
  • Lighting throughout both sections and the nacelles, all independently powered
    • Hull Windows
    • Navigation Lights
    • Deflector Dish
    • Impulse Engines
    • Warp Nacelles

The weight of the completed sections of the model are as follows:

• Saucer = 10.7 Lbs. (4.84 kg)
• Neck = 1.46 Lbs. (0.66 kg)
• Battle Section = 1.98 Lbs. (0.9 kg)
• Nacelles = 1 Lbs. (0.45 kg) each
• Support = 0.75 Lbs. (0.34 kg)
Total of the model without the support (Display Stand) = 16.1 Lbs. (7.3 kg)

20 thoughts on “ABOUT”

  1. Hi! I’ve been following your build closely and I really appreciate your efforts. Along the way, I did notice some issues on the Colors page of this site:

    First, I suspect that the yellow swatches for the following two colors are reversed:
    Vallejo 70.953 Flat Yellow
    Citadel Layer Yriel Yellow

    Next, the Amazon link for the following paint is incorrect:
    Tamiya X-27 Clear Red

    Finally, two items that you used are not listed:
    Tamiya X-19 Smoke – from Stage 14
    Vallejo Game Wash, Sepia – from Stage 36

    I started this kit very recently, so I’m way behind everyone. I’ve been trying to think of ways to efficiently and consistently sand the windows down like you do without the custom tool, but nothing found so far. I’m probably going to break down and have your tool made, but I don’t know of any places to contact. Since I’m also in Phoenix, I was wondering if you could share the contact info for the place that did yours?


    1. Thanks for the heads-up! I forgot to update this page with some of the latest stages. The color swatches were copied from the manufacturer sites, but I can see how the yellows on-screen are not quite what you actually get so I did swap them. I fixed the X-27 link, and added the Smoke and Sepia wash. As for the sanding fixture, I had it made at East Valley Precision and I know they still have the files on hand. Just ask them to remake Invoice 4189 – they said additional copies should be in the $100-125 range. Let me know!

  2. Hi just like to say here in the UK we are way ahead of you on this build.
    but also our special issues are also not the same so far.
    special issue 1 was the poster
    special issue 2 was the first shuttles (without the oval one) have not even seen that one yet.
    special issue 3 was the stand for the whole model. which is heavy metal.

    there saeems to be no late parts as i get 4 per month regular;y but this month i got 8 in 2 weeks.
    plus the stand in early January.
    i was hoping to see the next steps on here due to now fitting battery boxes, that break so easily. but alas your way behind.
    i will still look forward to coming back again to see how its going.
    thank you

    1. Yeah, I’ve already seen people across the pond building through Stage 66. Unfortunately, EM in the US is still waiting on Stage 52 so I have to wait.

  3. Do you have any advice for anyone who is starting the build and wants to do all of your mods as they build the stages?

  4. I’m heard a lot of people being very negative about this build, in terms of accuracy and light bleed. I’m keen on doing it, but don’t think I’m capable of doing most of the mods, I can do a little repainting, and blacking out windows but others are beyond me. I’m not a model maker. So, I just wanted to ask, on the assumption that I can’t do a lot of the mods, do you think the model is something still worth doing?

    1. I think there is no other Enterprise D this big at this price. Does it need some love to get it right, yeah. Can small novice-level updates make it really good, yeah.

  5. Hello. I am very impressed with the mod work you are doing. However, my expertise does not extend to the electrical wiring I’ve seen here. What I AM interested in though, is where you got the frosted Bussard collectors (I’m assuming they are 3D printed). I’ve just finished Issue 16 where the first warp nacelle is completed, and the original Bussard collector does not fit well at all. If you did these yourself, I am willing to pay to have you make a set for me (I have NO expertise in 3D printing). If you are willing to share the .stl file for it, I think Partwork Upgrades is willing to do the printing. Either way, I’d be very appreciative of your help. Looking forward to hearing from you.

    Bob Lester

    1. I made the frosted look from the original parts. Soak the outer Bussard in isopropyl alcohol until the red paint comes off, then I hit it with a few coats of Krylon Frosted Glass Finish.

  6. Dear MarvelPhx,
    I would love to thank you warm hearted for your work, I followed your site and only with your mods and help discriped on your site, it was my decision to buy this enterprise-d by my own.
    I love your documentation and your tries. I would have never come on the idea to fill the windows up etc. – tbh I‘m just reveiving part 5, but so far with our work in before I have a lot of fun with the model, and I really want to thank you on this way, keep on your work, I love it!

    I also aware that is is a lot of money but I think with your help I‘m getting a enterprise by far better then the sold product.

    Thank you for your site !

  7. Hi I am on issue 13 and I don’t like the Aztecing on the original model is there any advice for painting the D true to the film version of the model? Thanks.

    1. You could always repaint the partwork model to be whatever you want, but I do not know of any masking sets out there in the right scale.

  8. Hi. Great work and thanks for sharing! I am in the process of doing all the remodel stuff during the build-up of my Enterprise.

    I now discovered, that the android app, even though I gave it all the permissions I could, fails with fhe following error message when I try to scan for Bluetooth:

    Runtime Error

    Need android.permission.BL UETOOTH_SCAN permission for AttributionSource { uid = 10631, packageName= appinventor.ai_marvelphx.Enterpr ise_D_BLE_LCARS_Button_Sounds, attribution Tag = null, token = android .os.BinderProxy@7a6de94, next = null }: GattService registerScanner

    Have you heard this before and do you know a solution to this?

    1. Um, could you be running an older version of Android? I know this was an issue with Android 12, but I am running 14 and never seen this on my phone.

        1. Same exact phone and OS I have. Can you check the app permissions in your settings? Make sure it has Location and Nearby Devices enabled.

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