STAGE 102

 Return to the BUILD


“Install a battery box for the battle section, then combine its upper and lower sections to form an impressive whole.

NOTE: I will be presenting TWO different paths to build this Enterprise D partwork model. This is because after Stage 58, I completely tore my own model down and started on my Model Remodel journey. However, I have access to a second Enterprise D partwork that is being built in stock form, so I can show both methods here.

  • The normal BUILD section below will show the ‘stock’ way of installing the parts with any tips and tricks I find along the way.
  • The new MODEL REMODEL section will describe the changes I made during this stage including any painting, lighting, electronics, wiring, etc.

Contents


Parts

Materials: The Deck Panel L3-02 and Battery Box Nut are metal and the remaining non-electrical parts in this stage are all plastic.

Build


Assembling Deck Panel L3-02

Step A

Carefully remove ten (10) Escape Pod Covers from their sprues and fit them into the back of Deck Panel L3-02, as shown.

As in Stage 61 with these outer lower panels, I shaved off the two tiny bumps on the top and bottom with my hobby knife. This allows them to seat a bit deeper and more uniformly. While not shown here, I still recommend using pieces of black electrical tape or aluminum tape to seal in these Escape Pod Cover to prevent light leak:

Fit the Escape Pod Cover Bracket L3-02-03 to the back of Deck Panel L3-02 as shown, then secure the Bracket into place with two (2) AM screws.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Fit the Outer Panel L4-01 to Deck Panel L3-02 aligning the pins and posts to the matching holes as shown, then secure it into place with two (2) IM screws:

Retrieve your Saucer assembly from the previous stage and place it upside down on a soft surface. Fit this Deck Panel L3-02 assembly to the Lower Skeleton, as shown.

As before, there is a groove along the inside of the Outer Panel that needs to ‘pop’ onto the rim of the matching upper Deck Panel here:

If you remember the tiny JM screw we used to secure the outer corner of the Lower Skeleton here, this is why they used a countersunk screw. There is very little clearance under this Deck Panel:

Secure this Deck Panel to the Lower Skeleton with two (2) FM screws, as shown:

If this Panel fitment is satisfactory, press the two pins of the Escape Pod Screw Cover into the matching holes at this location of the Panel.

This Screw Cover should be installed so the red line is closer to the edge of the saucer. However, you may want to wait until you are happy with the fitment of all of the lower saucer panels before hiding these screws. It may be difficult to remove these Screw Covers once installed:

Here is Deck Panel L3-02 installed on my model:

Assembling the Battery Box

Step B

Fit the Battery Box Nut into this matching hexagonal recess of the Battery Box, as shown.

I find it easier to fit nuts like these by sliding them onto the end of a toothpick and then fitting the nut into the recess. Then, I hold the nut in place and slide the toothpick up and out leaving the nut behind in the proper position:

Cover the Nut with the Battery Box Nut Cover aligning it as shown, then secure it into place with two (2) AP screws:

Retrieve your upper Battle Section assembly from Stage 90 and place it upside down on your work surface. Fit the Battery Box into this opening of the Battle Section Lower Skeleton and route the plug inside the Skeleton and towards the Battle Section PCB. However, route the switch of the Battery Box up and out through this opening of the Skeleton (arrow below):

Connect the plug of the Battery Box to the socket marked ‘B’ on the Battle Section PCB:

Stack two (2) CR2032 batteries (not included) into the Battery Box with the positive (+) sides facing out. Cover these with the Battery Box Cover and secure it to the Battery Box with the Battery Box Screw, as shown:

Slide the Battery Box switch to the ON position (towards the end with the wires) and test the operation of your Battle Section Lights.

Note that the rear Navigation Lights (74G) should be flashing on and off and all the Window lights should stay lit constantly. If you find a section of your Windows are blinking instead, they are plugged into the wrong socket of the Battle Section PCB. Make sure only the Navigation Lights are the ones plugged into the socket marked ‘D’ on the Battle Section PCB – The sockets marked ‘A’ and ‘C’ are for the Windows:

Fitting the Battle Section Lower Panels

Step C

Retrieve your Lower Battle Section Panels assembly from the previous stage and turn it upside down. Thread the plugs of two forward Battle Section Lights cables down and back through this opening at the front of the Battle Section, as shown:

Connect the plugs of these Battle Section Lights to sockets marked ‘A’ on the Battle Section PCB, as shown:

Thread the plugs of the remaining forward Battle Section Lights cable down and back through this opposite-side opening at the front of the Battle Section, as shown:

Connect the plug of these Battle Section Lights to a socket marked ‘A’ on the Battle Section PCB, as shown:

Flip the Lower Battle Section Panels assembly over on top of the Battle Section and thread the plug of the middle Battle Section Lights cable (without the two inline plugs) down through this large opening of the Battle Section Skeleton, as shown:

Connect the plug of these Battle Section Lights to a socket marked ‘A’ on the Battle Section PCB, as shown:

Thread the plug of the rear Battle Section Lights cable (with the two inline plugs) down through this same opening of the Battle Section Skeleton, as shown:

Connect the plug of these Battle Section Lights to a socket marked ‘A’ on the Battle Section PCB, as shown:

While pulling any wiring slack down inside the Battle Section Skeleton, fit the Lower Battle Section Panels to the Battle Section, as shown.

Make sure none of the wiring is going to be trapped between the Panels assembly and the Skeleton here:

Securing the Battle Section Lower Panels

Step D

Begin to secure the Lower Battle Section Panels to the Skeleton by loosely installing two (2) CM screws at the rear edge, as shown.

This is not part of the official instructions, but I did it to keep the Panels roughly in place as we add the next parts. This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Fit a RCS Thruster Quad into this slot at the forward right edge between the Panels and the Battle Section, orienting it as shown.

Since I added the two CP screws at the rear, these sections may need to be lifted apart to install the Thruster Quad:

Repeat this process to install the second RCS Thruster Quad into the matching slot at the forward left edge, orienting it as shown:

Carefully lower the Lower Battle Section Panels fully into place onto the Battle Section, capturing the Thruster Quad in place as shown.

Once fitted, I loosely installed one (1) DP screw into the nearby hole to secure this corner together:

On the opposite side, check the Thruster Quad in properly captured as well.

When happy with the fitment, I loosely installed one (1) more DP screw into the nearby hole to secure this corner together as well:

Continue securing the Lower Battle Section Panels to the Skeleton with five (5) CM screws on this starboard (right) side, as shown:

Further secure the Lower Battle Section Panels to the Skeleton with five (5) more CM screws on this port (left) side, as shown:

Finish securing the Panels to the Skeleton around the edges with four (4) DP screws.

I already loosely installed two of these DP screws earlier – they can all be installed and tightened now. I also tightened up the CM screws at the rear:

That step ends this stage of the stock build. Below you will find the details on what I changed in this stage as part of my Model Remodel.

Model Remodel


Assembling Deck Panel L3-02

  • I processed this Deck Panel in the same way as I have been with my Model Remodel:

At these outer panels, I use a narrow strip of aluminum tape to seal the gap to the ‘L2’ middle row of panels, seen here:

Assembling the Battery Box

The only purpose of this Battery Box on my Remodel is to fill the hole in the hull. Therefore, it was assembled per the instructions but will never hold any batteries. I even pulled the wires/switch off of it in a later stage:

Fitting the Battle Section Lower Panels

IMPORTANT: This is the last time we will easily be able to access the USB programming port of the Arduino Nano inside the Battle Section. I highly recommend making sure your sketch code is working properly before fitting these panels. To check out the code I am using on my Model Remodel, head on over to my Final Code page!

Since there was no wiring to deal with, the fitment of the Lower Panels to the Battle Section went quite smoothly. Before screwing the parts together though, I did fix a few things along the way. First, I added a drop of super glue to the sides of the two RCS Thruster Quads so they would sit straight and fill their openings better:

I also took this time to power on my LED Strip lights for the windows to check for any light leaks. I did find a few and started with the gaps around the RCS Thruster Quads. These small gaps were filled with my adhesive putty:

The same putty was used to close up these gaps along the ‘sensor band’ between the upper Front and Middle Panels:

I did notice a long light leak along the starboard side between the upper and lower assemblies as well. This was filled with a rolled line of putty:

The same area along the port side did not have a light leak at all:

Next, I moved on to the Deflector Dish. Around the top edge, I could see light leaking out between the Dish and the upper Panels. I temporarily removed the Dish and sealed this area with another rolled line of putty:

To keep my window LED Strips from inadvertently causing a glow in my Deflector Dish when it is not turned on, I wrapped the entire back area of the Dish assembly with strips of black electrical tape before I reinstalled it:

Then, I needed to locate and secure my ventral beacon light LED (see my Battle Section Wiring page for details) to the exposed end of the fiber optic I installed in the previous stage. This was done with a drop of UV resin, just like the windows:

I wrapped this LED and the fiber with a small piece of tape to keep its light from showing through the windows:

Finally, I could route my Main Power connection and IR sensor wiring up through the square mounting hole and secure the Lower Panels onto the Skeleton per the instructions:

A quick lighting test and everything looks good so far!

Here is the result of our Model Remodel changes in this stage:

Thoughts


It feels great to see the Battle Section starting to take on its iconic shape. There will be many small covers and other details to add to it, but just being able to hold it in our hands is wonderful. I am looking forward to adding the final panels to complete it!

Next Up


Stage 103 – Deck Panel L3-01, Escape Pod Covers/Bracket, Cargo Loading Door, Transporter Pads, Screw Covers (Coming Soon)

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