Return to the BUILD

“Build and fit another large section of the lower saucer, before making a start on the starboard warp nacelle.

NOTE: I will be presenting TWO different paths to build this Enterprise D partwork model. This is because after Stage 58, I completely tore my own model down and started on my Model Remodel journey. However, I have access to a second Enterprise D partwork that is being built in stock form, so I can show both methods here.

  • The normal BUILD section below will show the ‘stock’ way of installing the parts with any tips and tricks I find along the way.
  • The new MODEL REMODEL section will describe the changes I made during this stage including any painting, lighting, electronics, wiring, etc.



Materials: The Starboard Nacelle Upper is metal and the other parts are plastic.

Magazine – Issue 28

  • Assembly Instructions: Building the Model
  • Episode Guide 6.15: Tapestry
  • Episode Guide 6.16: Birthright, Part I
  • Episode Guide 6.17: Birthright, Part II
  • Episode Guide 6.18: Starship Mine
  • Episode Guide 6.19: Lessons
  • Episode Guide 6.20: The Chase
  • Episode Guide 6.21: Frame of Mind
  • Episode Guide 6.22: Suspicions


Assembling Deck Panel L2-11

Step A

Carefully remove twelve (12) Clear Windows and fourteen (14) Dark Windows from their sprues and fit them into the back of Deck Panel L2-11, as shown.

Reminder: The longer ‘lip’ of each Window (arrows below) should face the wider end of the panel:

While not shown here, I still recommend using pieces of black electrical tape or aluminum tape to seal in these Dark Windows to prevent light leak:

Next, fit Reflector Panel L2-11-A and Reflector Panel L2-11-A1 onto the matching posts of Deck Panel L2-11 covering the windows as shown, then loosely secure the Reflectors with three (3) AP screws in these top holes:

Preparing to Install Deck panel L2-11

Step B

Retrieve your Saucer assembly from the previous stage and place it upside down on a soft surface. Identify the unused LED from the Deck Panel Lights (Part 105I) we left free in Stage 105 and route it out of the Lower Skeleton at this opening.

This was one of the LEDs we were shown was going to be mounted in the Lower Skeleton and to bend the leads as shown. However, they can be bent back straight if you choose:

The instructions show to have this LED come out here, but we are going to move it in a later step:

Next, connect the plug of the dual-LED Deck Panel Lights cable to a socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Thread the LEDs of this Deck Panel Light through the Frame and out through this same opening of the Lower Skeleton, as shown:

Then, connect the plug of the single-LED Deck Panel Light cable to a socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Route the LEDs of this Panel Lights cable through the Lower Skeleton and out through this neighboring opening:

Installing Deck Panel L2-11

Step C

Bring your Deck Panel L2-11 assembly over and slide the single LED of the Deck Panel Light into the notch of Reflector Panel L2-11-A (yellow arrow below). In the same way, slide the two LEDs of the Deck Panel Lights into the notches of Reflector Panel L2-11-A1 (red arrows below). Finally, finish securing the Reflector Panels to the Deck Panel with four (4) AP screws (circled below), capturing the LEDs in place.

As always, be sure these LEDs catch on the retaining pin inside the Deck Panel. Also, once these LEDs are installed, we can also tighten the first three AP screws holding the Reflector Panels to the Deck Panel:

Gently bend the leads of these three LEDs up and away from the Deck Panel, as shown:

I recommend to bend these LED leads even further towards the back of this panel:

At the top of Deck Panel L2-11, slide the LED of the Deck Panel Lights (105I) and the unused LED of the Deck Panel Lights cable (96G) into the upper notches of the two Reflector Panels.

First, we need to move the LED of the Deck Panel Lights (105I) to the next Skeleton opening towards the center (red arrow below). You may have to hunt a bit to find the unused LED of the Deck Panel Lights from Stage 96 (yellow arrow):

To make this easier, I temporarily mounted this Deck Panel into place by first sliding it into the nearby panel. If needed, you can loosely securing the free end down with one (1) FM screw. This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

You don’t have to do this, but you can always use a small piece of thin clear tape across the top of these LEDs to help hold them in place. Note how I gently bent the leads of these two LEDs down into the interior of the ship. I didn’t want them interfering with the panel we are about to fit:

Retrieve your Deck Panel L1-11 assembly from the previous stage. Fit Deck Panel L1-11 to the inner edge of Deck Panel L2-11 (yellow arrow below). Then, while holding these panels together, slide their tabs under the existing panels to the right (red arrows below), as shown.

I did detach the lower Deck Panel L2-11 from the Skeleton to do this step. Always make sure none of the wiring is going to be trapped or pinched:

Securing Deck panel L2-11

Step D

Once happy with the fitment, secure these Deck Panels into place with three (3) FM screws.

TIP: It is always a good idea to test your Saucer lighting after each section of panels is installed. This allows us to check for any shorting LEDs, pinched wires, or bad wire routing, etc. If adding a new section causes everything to fail, there is likely a short somewhere in the new parts:

Fitting the Starboard Navigation Light Lens

Step E

Fit the D-shaped body of the Starboard Navigation Light into the matching hole at the rear of the Starboard Nacelle Upper, as shown.

As this part will be loose until the next stage, I recommend taping this part in place for now:

That step ends this stage of the stock build. Below you will find the details on what I changed in this stage as part of my Model Remodel.

Model Remodel

Assembling Deck Panel L2-11

Installing Deck Panel L2-11

This was fitted (along with Deck Panel L1-11) per my ‘stock’ method above – here is what it looks like on the remodel:

Fitting the Starboard Navigation Light Lens

As with the first nacelle, I dropped this part into some 91% isopropyl alcohol and let it sit for a few hours to strip the paint off. Once the paint was removed, I gently sanded the rounded tip with a 3200 grit sandpaper stick to ‘cloud’ it over and help diffuse any light:

Then, per the instructions, I fit the Formation Light into the matching D-shaped hole at the rear of the Nacelle Upper:

As per my Warp Nacelles page, I also added a tiny SMD LED to this Formation Light. See that page for more details:

Here is the result of our Model Remodel changes in this stage:


While we have now finished the inner and middle Deck Panel rows of our lower Saucer, we are finally receiving the parts for our port Warp Nacelle. We are quickly approaching the final steps to complete our Enterprise D!

Next Up

Stage 108 – Deck Panel L3-18, Outer Panel L4-17, Escape Pod Covers/Bracket, Nacelle Upper Frame/Front/Bussard