Return to the BUILD
“Start by illuminating more of the saucer section, and then add a base to your battle section neck build.“
Materials: The Deck Panel and Battle Section Floor are metal – the non-electrical parts are plastic.
- Phillip-head Screwdriver (appears to be size PH0)
Magazine – Issue 8
- Assembly Instructions: Building the Model
- Episode Guide 2.2: Where Silence Has Lease
- Episode Guide 2.3: Elementary, Dear Data
- Episode Guide 2.4: The Outrageous Okona
- Episode Guide 2.5: Loud As A Whisper
- Episode Guide 2.6: The Schizoid Man
- Episode Guide 2.7: Unnatural Selection
- Episode Guide 2.8: A Matter Of Honor
Assembling Deck Panel U2-03
Fit the two (2) Escape Pod Covers into the back of Deck Panel U2-03, as shown:
Carefully remove seven (7) Clear Windows and three (3) Dark Windows from their sprues and fit them into the back of Deck Panel U2-03 as shown.
Reminder: I sanded all of these windows down already. See The Windows page for more details:
As before, I used pieces of black electrical tape behind the Escape Pod Covers and Dark Windows to reduce light leak:
Fitting Deck Panel U2-03
Retrieve your saucer Upper Skeleton assembly from the previous stage. Position this Deck Panel onto the left-side skeleton as shown, and partially secure it in place with one (1) BM screw.
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Lighting Deck Panel U2-03
Slide the LED on the red/blue wires of the Deck Panel Lights cable into the top notch of Reflector Panel U3-07-A.
You may have to separate these two panels a bit to get these LEDs to slide fully into place:
Similarly, slide the LED on the yellow/white wires of the same Deck Panel Lights cable into the top notch of Reflector Panel U3-06-A:
Finish securing this panel to the skeleton with five (5) more BM screws:
Secure this Deck Panel U2-03 to the lower deck panels with four (4) EM screws.
This will capture the two LEDs we just installed:
Finally, we can test these new window lights by connecting this Deck Panel Light cable to the PCB and Battery Box:
And, with the studio lights off:
One thing I wanted to include here was my solution to temporarily manage all the wiring we have been adding. I cut a short length of craft wire and wrapped it around the wires to keep them together and out of the way (for the most part). It is easy to remove and replace the craft wire as needed:
Back to the Battle Section
Retrieve your Battle Section Neck assembly and fit the Battle Section Floor over the T-shaped posts on the bottom, and align the screw holes as shown:
Secure the Battle Section Floor to the neck skeleton with five (5) BM screws:
Fit the free LED of the Battle Section Lights cable (from Stage 22) on the port (left) side into this location of the Battle Section Rear Neck.
The instructions show this LED sitting flat, but there is a tiny tab that kept it from fitting in a way I was happy with. Therefore, I stood the LED on its side as you can see here. It does not sit any higher than the phaser strip cover next to it, so it will not interfere with any future parts. You will also likely need to gently bend the leads of the LED so it will fit there in the best way possible:
In the same way, fit the other free LED of the Battle Section Lights cable on the starboard (right) side into this location of the Battle Section Rear Neck.
I stood this LED on end as well. Both of these LEDs do not stay in place well, so I put the tiniest drop of super glue underneath just to keep them there:
We are getting close to reaching the starboard side of our saucer section with these Deck Panels! The wiring is getting crazy, but we are lighting a LOT of windows. Also, with this Battle Section Floor in place, that must mean the power from the neck will not attach to the engineering section. That means we will need yet another power supply for our starship! I count five needed so far…
Stage 28 – Deck Panel U1-03, Windows/Reflector/Light, Escape Pod Covers, Left Ventral Neck Panel