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“Another short stage in which a deck panel is assembled and the final warp engine field grill reflector is added to your portside warp nacelle.




Materials: All of the non-electrical parts in this stage are plastic.


Fitting Field Grill Deflectors

Step A

Slide the white Warp Engine Field Grill Rear Reflector 2 inside the blue Warp Engine Field Grill Rear Reflector 1, as shown:

Retrieve your port Warp Nacelle assembly from the previous stage. Slide this Reflector assembly into the space at the rear of the nacelle.

My reflector assembly did not just drop in like the instructions show. The upper navigation light LED is in the way:

To make space for this reflector, I first carefully cut away this small ‘collar’ of heat-shrink tubing around the LED using my hobby knife and some tweezers:

Next, I made sure the LED itself was seated into the housing as far as it would go. My round-nose tweezers worked great for pushing the LED down:

Then, I gently bent the leads of the LED down towards the wiring until it was as low as possible:

Finally, since the base of this LED was now exposed, I did not want the flashing light to be visible through my warp grilles. This was solved by covering the LED with a small piece of black electrical tape:

With the wiring of the LED now moved out of the way, the Warp Engine Field Grill Rear Reflector popped right into place without any trouble:

Make sure this reflector assembly is even with the two side reflectors, as shown. If not, you may need to make more space for it. If this reflector sticks up at all, it may cause trouble when we try to complete the warp nacelle in the coming stages:

Assembling and Installing Deck Panel U3-20

Step B

Carefully remove six (6) Escape Pod Covers, three (3) Clear Windows and four (4) Dark Windows from their sprues and fit them into the back of Deck Panel U3-20, as shown.

Reminder: I sanded all of these windows down already. See The Windows page for more details:

As before, I used pieces of black electrical tape behind the Escape Pod Covers and Dark Windows to reduce light leak:

As I was assembling this panel, I found that the Reflector Panel we are about to install does not hold the windows in place all that well. To help keep everything where it should be, I used one of my spare Clear Stickers (from Stage 47 and Stage 49) to secure all of the center windows:

Fit Reflector Panel U3-20-A onto the back of Deck Panel U3-20, as shown:

Slide the LEDs on the yellow/black wires of the Deck Panel Lights cable into this notch of the Reflector Panel.

NOTE: The LED on the red/black wires of this cable will be used to light the Impulse Engine in a later stage:

Secure the Reflector Panel to the Deck Panel with three (3) BP screws.

This Reflector Panel fits very stiff over the posts of the Deck Panel. Before adding the screws, make sure these screw cutouts are fully seated:

We can test these new window lights by connecting the new Deck Panel Lights cable to the PCB and Battery Box:

From the outside, our new panel looks great! This panel will installed in upcoming stages:


That was another stage that just flew by! It also marks the end of Issue 13. While we have not been instructed to power the nacelle lighting yet, I did connect it to the PCB and Battery Box to see how it looked. Well, the white paint we have been adding to the reflectors (and the sanding I did to the warp grilles when I painted them) does help a lot, but I am still not quite satisfied. Therefore, I am actively working on replacement lighting setup that should really bring these nacelles to life. More to come…

Next Up

Stage 51 – Deck Panel U2-10, Windows/Lights, Escape Pod Covers, Nacelle Lower Frame

6 thoughts on “STAGE 50”

  1. Hello
    Have you seen the video on YouTube from outsider 238 regarding the problems with the build and his subsequent conversation with eagle moss.
    He seemed to raise doubts on whether the saucer section would actually be attached to the model itself.
    Just wondering what your thoughts were as I have followed and copied your build closely and as someone who seems a very experienced model maker I was interested in what you think the solution might be.
    Surely eagle moss would not design a model with a major part missing from the final model as it would leave them open to all sorts of false representation claims as all images show the saucer section attached to the ship.
    Kind regards

    1. I have indeed followed the build of ‘outsider238’. It is unfortunate that he cancelled, but I can understand. I do think the saucer section is going to latch onto those four ‘docking clamps’ in the top of the cobra head. I think that is why the top of the cobra head, those clamps, and the skeleton inside the neck are metal. How they latch exactly is yet to be seen. Even the studio models were nose heavy, so it will be interested to see how our model works.

  2. People seem to be going their own way on this build.
    Are you still going to continue with your build on here as it is very informative compared to the instructions we get from eagle moss.
    Have you had your next issues yet?

    1. Yes, I will be continuing my build here whenever EM gets parts back in stock. I have not had anything in quite a while.

  3. Hi
    I am working on stages 55 to 58 and one thing I have noticed is the lower skeleton catches quite a lot of the wiring closest to the outer edge of the model so some of the wiring needs to be rerouted.
    Might be a job while you are waiting for some more issues.
    You can see what I mean on some of the YouTube builds.
    Kind regards

    1. Yeah, it is hard to judge where the wiring should go without all the parts. When I start on the lower saucer panels is when I will be making the decision to resin the windows and/or replace all the lighting. We shall see!

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