STAGE 55

 Return to the BUILD


“Return to the main bridge build you assembled in issues one and two and integrate it with your near-complete upper saucer section!

 

Contents


Parts

Materials: The Deck 2 Base is metal, but the remaining non-electronic parts are plastic.

Magazine – Issue 15

  • Assembly Instructions: Building the Model
  • Episode Guide 3.19: Captain’s Holiday
  • Episode Guide 3.20: Tin Man
  • Episode Guide 3.21: Hollow Pursuits
  • Episode Guide 3.22: The Most Toys
  • Episode Guide 3.23: Sarek

Build


Fitting the Deck 2 Base

Step A

Retrieve your saucer assembly and fit the Deck 2 Base onto the Upper Skeleton, as shown:

Secure the Deck 2 Base into place from below with six (6) FM screws.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Fitting the Main Bridge/Deck Two Assembly

Step B

Retrieve your Main Bridge/Deck Two assembly from Stage 5. Thread the lighting cables from this assembly through the central opening of the Upper Skeleton:

Fit the Main Bridge/Deck Two assembly to the Upper Skeleton, as shown:

There is a pin on the rear of each shuttlebay wall that fits down into two small matching slots in the Deck 2 Base, as shown:

Secure the rear and sides of the Main Bridge/Deck Two assembly to the Upper Skeleton from below with fourteen (14) BM screws.

You may notice one of my screws missing in the picture above. It turns out the screw post on the Deck Panel did not get casted during manufacturing. I have ordered a replacement stage for this part:

Remove the two FM screws holding the Saucer PCB 2 down and carefully lift the PCB towards the rear of the saucer and out of the way.

New FM screws are supplied with this stage, so these removed screws can either be saved or discarded:

Secure the front of the Main Bridge/Deck Two assembly to the Upper Skeleton with eight (8) more BM screws:

Return the Saucer PCB 2 to its previous position and secure it into place with four (4) FM screws.

I only used three (3) FM screws here as I do not like how close the circuit trace is on the PCB near the hole I marked ‘X’. I have already seen other builders encounter electrical shorts due to this proximity and three screws is enough to hold the PCB in place:

From the Main Bridge/Deck Two assembly, connect the plugs of the Deck Front Window Light, Deck Lights, and Bridge Lights cables into any sockets marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 2.

Since I painted my Emergency Flush Vents way back in Stage 1, I did not install the associated Deck Lights cable (01U – marked ‘B’). Therefore, I only had two cables to attach at this point:

However, this Deck Lights cable (01U – marked ‘B’) does need to be connected as one of the LEDs is used to light the first lower saucer panel in Stage 59. And, I need the second LED to light the Arboretum mod I did back in Stage 53. Therefore, it has been connected here as per the instructions:

Speaking of my Arboretum mod: once this Deck Lights cable was connected, I ran one of the LEDs through the skeleton and down to the notch I cut in Reflector Panel U3-01-A2:

After fitting the end of the LED flush against the reflector, I used some electrical tape to hold it in place:

Fitting the Saucer Impulse Engines

Step C

Slide the Left Saucer Impulse Engine and Left Impulse Reflector together.

Locate the free LED on the end of the Deck Panel Lights cable from Stage 50. Slide this LED into the notch between the parts.

NOTE: These parts do not ‘slide’ together as much as just touch each other.

I did test the lighting of this assembly and decided to try and diffuse the LED a bit. I started by putting a piece of Scotch Tape over the LED, as shown. This not only helps diffuse the bright LED, but it also holds the LED in place:

Then, inside the Impulse Engine itself, I took a bit of cotton from the tip of a Cotton Swab and inserted it into the wide end:

Fit this Left Saucer Impulse Engine assembly to the underside of the Upper Skeleton at Deck Panel U3-20 on the port (left) side.

I fit the Left Impulse Reflector into place first, setting it onto the matching posts of the Deck Panel:

Then, I slid the Left Saucer Impulse Engine down into place. There is a ridge around the edge of the engine that keeps it inside the panel (arrows below). There is also a tiny pin on the engine that is meant to go between the leads of the LED to keep it from sliding out of the reflector:

Secure the Left Saucer Impulse Engine assembly into place with two (2) AP screws:

Step D

In the same way, slide the Right Saucer Impulse Engine and Right Impulse Reflector together.

Locate the free LED on the end of the Deck Panel Lights cable from Stage 33. Slide this LED into the notch between the parts.

Fit this Right Saucer Impulse Engine assembly to the underside of the Upper Skeleton at Deck Panel U3-02 on the starboard (right) side.

I diffused this LED using the same method as before. Again, note the edges of the engine should be inside the deck panel (arrows below):

Secure the Right Saucer Impulse Engine assembly into place with two (2) AP screws:

Assembling the Warp Nacelle Battery Box

Step E

Fit the Battery Box Nut into this hexagonal hole of the Battery Box/Power Switch:

Cover the nut with the Battery Box Bracket and secure into place with two (2) AP screws:

Thoughts


Our final upper deck panels have been installed and the saucer looks amazing so far! I also like how the Impulse Engines are painted and have a red lens right out of the pack. It is a very small but nice detail!

Next Up


Stage 56 – Dorsal Phaser Arrays, Formation Lights, Nacelle Lower

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.