Return to the BUILD

“Add another PCB, see the entire upper saucer section light up, and make a start on the lower saucer framework!“

Contents

Parts

Materials: The Lower Skeleton 4 and Lock Spring are metal. The other non-electronic parts are plastic.

Build

Fitting the First Nacelle Spring

Step A

Slide the Lock Spring onto the longer end of the Lock Pin, as shown:

Retrieve your Nacelle Lower assembly from the previous stage. Fit the Lock Pin assembly into this housing furthest from the Battery Box. Be sure the flange of the Lock Pin is inside the housing and facing the center of the nacelle, as shown.

You may need to compress the Lock Spring a bit to slide this assembly into the housing:

Cover this Lock Pin assembly with the Lock Bracket.

The recesses of the Lock Bracket should be facing down, as shown:

Secure the Lock Bracket into place with two (2) AM screws.

Once this is secure, you should be able to push the exposed end of the Lock Pin into the housing. If not, check for any obstructions to the movement of the pin. This is also your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Adding the Third Saucer PCB

Step B

Retrieve your saucer assembly. Connect the Saucer PCB Cable to this ‘IN/OUT’ socket of Saucer PCB 2:

Fit Saucer PCB 3 to this location inside the Upper Skeleton, with the Saucer PCB Cable running underneath as shown (arrows below). Then, connect the free end of the Saucer PCB Cable to the ‘IN/OUT’ socket on Saucer PCB 3 circled below:

Secure Saucer PCB 3 to the Upper Skeleton with four (4) FM screws.

As with the identical Saucer PCB 2, I only used three (3) FM screws here as I do not like how close the circuit trace is on the PCB near the hole I marked ‘X’. I have already seen other builders encounter electrical shorts due to this proximity and three screws is enough to hold the PCB in place:

Installing the Saucer Switch and Connecting Cables

Step C

Connect the Saucer Power Switch to the socket marked ‘SW1’ on Saucer PCB 1:

Connect the two 4-pin plugs of Deck Panel Lights 33C (from Deck Panel U3-02) and Deck Panel Lights 36H (from Deck Panel U1-01) into sockets marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3:

Connect the three two-pin plugs of Deck Panel Lights 53H (from Deck Panel U3-01) and both Panel Lights 54D (also from Deck Panel U3-01) into sockets marked ‘B’ on Saucer PCB 3:

Tuck these light cables between the Upper Skeleton frame and the Deck Panels where possible. Use the provided Cable Ties to tidy up the cables into bundles.

I have been using my own 4″ black zip ties to bundle these cables neatly together and secure them to the Upper Skeleton, as shown:

Testing the Lights

Step D

Connect the Battery Pack to the socket marked ‘IN2’ on Saucer PCB 1:

Slide the Saucer Power Switch to the ON position. All of the LEDs on our saucer section should turn on.

NOTE: After testing the lights, be sure to turn this Saucer Power Switch back to the OFF position. I also recommend disconnecting the Battery Pack as it has some delicate wiring and we don’t want to damage them while handling the saucer.

She is alive! All of my lighting worked as expected, however I do have some panel gap/lifeboat light leaks to address:

Starting on the Lower Saucer Section

Step E

Fit the Lower Skeleton 4 to these Skeletal Supports on the underside of your saucer assembly as shown, taking care not to pinch any wiring:

The wiring at the outside edge of the saucer should be routed through these small gaps between the upper and lower skeleton frames. Make sure it will not be pinched or trapped between the posts of the frames as they are secured together:

Begin securing the Lower Skeleton 4 to the Skeletal Supports with eight (3) BM screws:

Finish securing the Lower Skeleton 4 to the Upper Skeleton frame with four (4) FM screws:

Thoughts

It is very cool to finally see the entire upper saucer lit all together! I am a bit distressed by all of the wiring though, so I am seriously considering going down the route of pulling the stock wiring/lighting out and creating my own system. Perhaps it is time to try the resin windows and learn some more Arduino programming!

Next Up

Stage 58 – Lower Skeleton 5, Lock Bracket/Pin/Spring, Formation Light LEDs