STAGE 78

 Return to the BUILD

“A further addition to the battle section precedes a large slice of the lower saucer fitting securely into place.“

NOTE: I will be presenting TWO different paths to build this Enterprise D partwork model. This is because after Stage 58, I completely tore my own model down and started on my Model Remodel journey. However, I have access to a second Enterprise D partwork that is being built in stock form, so I can show both methods here.

  • The normal BUILD section below will show the ‘stock’ way of installing the parts with any tips and tricks I find along the way.
  • The new MODEL REMODEL section will describe the changes I made during this stage including any painting, lighting, electronics, wiring, etc.

Contents

Parts

Materials: All of the non-electrical parts in this stage are plastic.

Build

Fitting a Bank of Battle Section Windows

Step A

Retrieve your Battle Section Front Panel assembly from the previous stage. Fit the Battle Section Front Windows Right to this location inside the Front Panel.

Make sure the ‘windows’ of this part fit into all of the matching window openings of the Battle Section Rear. You can easily clean out any plastic bits from the windows by sliding a wooden toothpick around the inside of each window opening. We will secure these Windows in the next stage:

Assembling Deck Panel L2-08

Step B

Carefully remove fourteen (14) Clear Windows and fourteen (14) Dark Windows from their sprues and fit them into the back of Deck Panel L2-08, as shown.

Reminder: The longer ‘lip’ of each Window (arrows below) should face the wider end of the panel:

While not shown here, I still recommend using pieces of black electrical tape or aluminum tape to seal in these Dark Windows to prevent light leak:

Next, fit Reflector Panel L2-08-A and Reflector Panel L2-08-A1 onto the matching posts of Deck Panel L2-08 covering the windows as shown:

To keep the Windows from moving around while we add the LEDs, I loosely secured these Reflectors across the top with some BP screws:

Then, slide the LEDs of the Deck Panel Lights II (shorter cable) into the two matching slots of Reflector Panel L2-08-A, as shown:

Now, slide the LEDs of a Deck Panel Lights I (longer cable) into the two matching slots of Reflector Panel L2-08-A1, as shown.

As usual, make sure these LEDs are fully seated and locked over the retaining pins inside the Reflector Panels:

Secure these two Reflectors to the Deck Panel with eight (8) BP screws:

Finally, gently bend the leads of all four LEDs up to a 90° angle, as shown:

Fitting Deck Panel L2-08

Step C

Retrieve your Saucer assembly and set it upside down on a soft surface. Route the LEDs of the remaining Deck Panel Lights I cable up  through these separate openings in Lower Skeleton 6, as shown.

In this picture, I removed the color around this specific cable to highlight how the LED should be routed up through the Skeleton:

Route the plug of this Deck Panel Lights I cable through the frame and connect it to a socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Turn your Deck Panel L2-08 assembly upside down and feed the plugs of its two Deck Panel Lights cables down through the Lower Skeleton. Then, connect the plugs of these cables to the Saucer PCBs:

For the LEDs behind Reflector Panel L2-08-A, the Deck Panel Light cable should routed into the frame through this Lower Skeleton opening (arrow below) end up near Saucer PCB 2 (circled below):

Connect the plug of this Deck Panel Light cable to a socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 2:

For the LEDs behind Reflector Panel L2-08-A1, the Deck Panel Light cable should routed into the frame through this Lower Skeleton opening (arrow below) end up near Saucer PCB 3 (circled below):

Connect the plug of this Deck Panel Light cable to a socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3:

Fitting Deck Panel L2-08-A

Step D

At the top of Deck Panel L2-08, fit the two LEDs of the loose Deck Panel Lights I cable into these upper slots of the Reflector Panels.

To make this easier, I temporarily mounted this Deck Panel L2-08 into place by first sliding it into the nearby panel:

And then, loosely securing the free end down with two (2) FM screws as shown. This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

You don’t have to do this, but I feel it makes it easier to get these top LEDs fitted correctly. Here, I used small pieces of thin clear tape across the top of these LEDs to help hold them in place. Note how I gently bent the leads of these two LEDs down into the interior of the ship. I didn’t want them interfering with the panel we are about to fit:

Retrieve your Deck Panel L1-08 assembly from the previous stage. Fit Deck Panel L1-08 to the inner edge of Deck Panel L2-08 (yellow arrow below). Then, while holding these panels together, slide their tabs under the existing panels to the right (red arrows below), as shown.

I did detach the lower Deck Panel L2-08 from the Skeleton to do this step:

Once happy with the fitment, secure these Deck Panels into place with three (3) FM screws:

That step ends this stage of the stock build. Below you will find the details on what I changed in this stage as part of my Model Remodel.

Model Remodel

Fitting a Bank of Battle Section Windows

As on the left side, the ‘windows’ of the Battle Section Front Windows Right were cut off and then sanded, leaving a smooth panel. The back of this panel was then lightly airbrushed with white paint to diffuse light:

Assembling Deck Panel L2-08

I processed this Deck Panel in the same way as I have been with my Model Remodel:

Here is the result of our Model Remodel changes in this stage:

Thoughts

We are slowly working our way around the lower saucer, panel by panel. Before you know it, we will be closing this thing up!

Next Up

Stage 79 – Deck Panel L3-12, Outer Panel L4-11, Reflector Panels, Escape Pod Covers, Battle Section Panel Lights

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