Return to the BUILD

“The lower saucer gains another large piece of its support structure, and a new piece of the battle section comes into play.

NOTE: I will be presenting TWO different paths to build this Enterprise D partwork model. This is because after Stage 58, I completely tore my own model down and started on my Model Remodel journey. However, I have access to a second Enterprise D partwork that is being built in stock form, so I can show both methods here.

  • The normal BUILD section below will show the ‘stock’ way of installing the parts with any tips and tricks I find along the way.
  • The new MODEL REMODEL section will describe the changes I made during this stage including any painting, lighting, electronics, wiring, etc.



Materials: The Lower Skeleton 2 is metal and the rest of the non-electrical parts in this stage are plastic.


Assembling Lower Skeleton 2

Step A

Fit the LED of a Panel Light to this matching location on the Lower Skeleton 2 (with the wires running down through the nearby opening), as shown. Then, gently bend the leads of the LED around the screw hole:

Next, cover this LED with the LED Bracket as shown, and secure the Bracket into place with one (1) AM screw.

We have done this process before. This also is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Fitting Lower Skeleton 2

Step B

Retrieve your Saucer assembly from the previous stage and place it upside down on a soft surface. Fit the Lower Skeleton 2 assembly into place at the rear port (left) side, aligning all of the mounting points as shown:

The small screw eyelet at the outer edge of this Skeleton needs to slide under the matching eyelet of the neighboring Lower Skeleton (arrow below). At the same time, make sure the port Formation Light LED/wiring is safely located in the channel below these eyelets:

Be sure not to pinch or trap the wiring of any Deck Panel Lights between the Lower Skeleton and Upper Skeleton while fitting this Skeleton piece:

Begin securing this Lower Skeleton into place along the outer row of screw holes with four (4) FM screws:

I recommend only starting these screws for now. Once all of the screws for this Lower Skeleton are started, we will come back and tighten them:

Continue securing this Lower Skeleton into place at the corner with one (1) AM screw.

Be sure installing this screw does not impede the wiring of the Formation Light – it should still be able to move in the channel:

IMPORTANT: In Stage 94, a pair of JM screws are provided that are to be used to replace these AM screws over the saucer side Formation Lights. The new JM screws have a countersunk head and will allow the Deck Panels above to fit better. I waited until that stage arrived and replaced the screw now:

Finish securing this Lower Skeleton into place along the inner two rows of screw holes with eight (8) BM screws.

With all of the screws now started, go back and fully tighten each one. I tend to go around the edges first, then to the middle:

Plugging in the Lights

Step C

Route the plug of the Panel Lights cable through the frame and connect it to a socket marked ‘B’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Adding Windows to the Battle Section Middle

Step D

Retrieve your Battle Section Middle Panel from the previous stage. Fit the Window Panel into the matching openings of the Middle Panel.

This should be oriented so the small pin on the Window Panel (circled below) is facing into the square recessed area of the Middle Panel, as shown:

Fit the mounting tabs of the Window Panel Reflector over the matching posts of the Middle Panel as shown:

Slide the LED of the second Panel Light cable into this matching notch of the Window Panel Reflector:

Secure the Reflector to the Middle Panel with two (2) DP screws:

Finally, gently bend the leads of this LED up and away from the Middle Panel, as shown:

I recommend to also gently bend the leads of this LED towards the starboard (right) side – this will help avoid the skeleton structure later on:

If desired, temporarily connect the plug of this Panel Light to an available socket ‘B’ on Saucer PCB 3 and turn ON the switch to test the LEDs.

That step ends this stage of the stock build. Below you will find the details on what I changed in this stage as part of my Model Remodel.

Model Remodel

Fitting Lower Skeleton 2

Without all the stock lights wiring, this Lower Skeleton fit like a champ. I only needed to be aware of protecting the Formation Light LED.

Adding Windows to the Battle Section Middle

As I have been doing to make space for my UV resin windows, the ‘windows’ of this Window Panel were cut off and then sanded, leaving a smooth panel. The back of this panel was then lightly airbrushed with white paint to diffuse light. The Reflector was soaked in 70% Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the silver paint, painted white on the inside, and was then installed normally. As I am using central lighting, the LED was not required:

Here is the result of our Model Remodel changes in this stage:


As we add more Lower Skeleton sections to our saucer assembly, I notice that the outer ring of FM screws pull the upper saucer sections together. By making these FM screws as tight as possible, this may help to level out and seal our upper Deck Panels even more.

Next Up

Stage 82 – Deck Panel L1-03, Escape Pod Covers/Brackets, Ventral Phaser Array L03, Windows/Reflectors

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.