Return to the BUILD

“Combine two more deck panels as you fit them to the lower skeleton, before lighting up the almost-complete saucer section.

NOTE: I will be presenting TWO different paths to build this Enterprise D partwork model. This is because after Stage 58, I completely tore my own model down and started on my Model Remodel journey. However, I have access to a second Enterprise D partwork that is being built in stock form, so I can show both methods here.

  • The normal BUILD section below will show the ‘stock’ way of installing the parts with any tips and tricks I find along the way.
  • The new MODEL REMODEL section will describe the changes I made during this stage including any painting, lighting, electronics, wiring, etc.



Materials: All of the non-electrical parts are plastic in this stage.


Assembling Deck Panel L2-10

Step A

Carefully remove ten (10) Clear Windows and thirteen (13) Dark Windows from their sprues and fit them into the back of Deck Panel L2-10, as shown.

Reminder: The longer ‘lip’ of each Window (arrows below) should face the wider end of the panel:

While not shown here, I still recommend using pieces of black electrical tape or aluminum tape to seal in these Dark Windows to prevent light leak:

Next, fit Reflector Panel L2-10-A and Reflector Panel L2-10-A1 onto the matching posts of Deck Panel L2-10 covering the windows as shown, then loosely secure the Reflectors with two (2) AP screws in these top holes:

Fitting Deck Panel L2-10

Step B

Retrieve your Saucer assembly from Stage 94 and set it upside down on a soft surface. Locate the free LED on the end of the existing Deck Panel Lights I cable (92H – red/blue wires) and make sure it is coming up out of this Lower Skeleton opening on the port (left) side of the ship:

Connect the plug of a Deck Panel Lights cable to a socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Thread the LEDs of this Deck Panel Lights cable through the Frame and out through these separate outer openings of the Lower Skeleton:

Bring your Deck Panel L2-10 assembly over and position it upside down near these Deck Panel Lights. Fit the two LEDs into the matching outer slots of the Reflector Panels L2-10, ensuring they catch the retaining pin inside:

Finish securing the Reflector Panels to the Deck Panel with four (4) AP screws (and tighten up the previous two screws):

Gently bend the leads of these LEDs away from the Deck Panel surface, as shown:

Step C

Connect the plug of the second Deck Panel Lights cable to another socket marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Thread the LEDs of this Deck Panel Lights cable through the Frame and out through these separate upper openings of the Lower Skeleton.

Note the position of these new LEDs (arrows below) in relation to the existing Deck Panel Lights I LED we located earlier, all three are in color below:

At the top of Deck Panel L2-10, fit the existing Deck Panel Light I LED (92H – indicated below) into the upper right slot of Reflector Panel L2-10-A, as shown. In the same way, fit the LED on the yellow/black wires of the new Deck Panel Lights (96G) into the upper left slot, as shown.

To make this easier, I temporarily mounted this Deck Panel into place by first sliding it into the nearby panel. If needed, you can loosely securing the free end down with two (2) FM screws. This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

You don’t have to do this, but you can always use a small piece of thin clear tape across the top of these LEDs to help hold them in place. Note how I gently bent the leads of these two LEDs down into the interior of the ship. I didn’t want them interfering with the panel we are about to fit:

Retrieve your Deck Panel L1-10 assembly from the previous stage. Fit Deck Panel L1-10 to the inner edge of Deck Panel L2-10 (yellow arrow below). Then, while holding these panels together, slide their tabs under the existing panels to the right (red arrows below), as shown.

I did detach the lower Deck Panel L2-10 from the Skeleton to do this step. Always make sure none of the wiring is going to be trapped or pinched:

Once happy with the fitment, secure these Deck Panels into place with three (3) FM screws.

TIP: It is always a good idea to test your Saucer lighting after each section of panels is installed. This allows us to check for any shorting LEDs, pinched wires, or bad wire routing, etc. If adding a new section causes everything to fail, there is likely a short somewhere:

That step ends this stage of the stock build. Below you will find the details on what I changed in this stage as part of my Model Remodel.

Model Remodel

Assembling Deck Panel L2-10

The Battle Section Lower Middle Panel

  • While we didn’t use it in this stage, I still processed the Lower Middle Panel we received to have it ready for future stages:

Here is the result of our Model Remodel changes in this stage:


I did test my saucer lights after mounting these two Deck Panels and everything was working as expected. And, while it was nice to get the Battle Section Lower Middle Panel with this stage, it can be safely stored as we will not need it for the remainder of this issue.

Next Up

Stage 97 – Deck Panel L3-16, Outer Panel L4-15, Escape Pod Covers/Bracket, Battle Section Lower Left Windows

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