Return to the BUILD

“In this stage, the structure that secures the saucer to the battle section begins to take shape.

NOTE: I will be presenting TWO different paths to build this Enterprise D partwork model. This is because after Stage 58, I completely tore my own model down and started on my Model Remodel journey. However, I have access to a second Enterprise D partwork that is being built in stock form, so I can show both methods here.

  • The normal BUILD section below will show the ‘stock’ way of installing the parts with any tips and tricks I find along the way.
  • The new MODEL REMODEL section will describe the changes I made during this stage including any painting, lighting, electronics, wiring, etc.



Materials: The Lower Skelton 1 is metal and the other non-electrical parts are plastic.

Magazine – Issue 26

  • Assembly Instructions: Building the Model
  • Episode Guide 6.4: Relics
  • Episode Guide 6.5: Schisms
  • Episode Guide 6.6: True Q
  • Episode Guide 6.7: Rascals


Preparing the Deck Panel Lights

Step A

Carefully bend the leads of the LED on each of the longer Deck Panel Lights cables to be at 90° angles, as shown:

Similarly, bend the leads of the LED on the shorter Deck Panel Light cables to be at 90° angles, but backwards as shown:

Fitting Lower Skeleton 1

Step B

Fit the LED of one longer Deck Panel Lights cable into this notch of Lower Skeleton 1, as shown. Then, cover it with a LED Bracket and secure it into place with one (1) AM screw.

We have done this process before, but it is still fiddly. This also is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Repeat this process to secure the other LED of this Deck Panel Lights cable into this nearby notch of Skeleton using one (1) more AM screw, as shown:

Next, secure the two LEDs of the second longer Deck Panel Lights cable into these notches of the Skeleton in the same way using two (2) more AM screws, as shown:

Then, secure the single LED of the shorter Deck Panel Light cable into this top notch of Skeleton using one (1) more AM screw, as shown:

Retrieve your Saucer assembly from the previous stage and carefully lay it upside down on a soft surface. Fit this Lower Skeleton 1 assembly to the matching posts at this location and routing the new Deck Panel Light cables towards the center PCBs as shown:

Begin to secure this Lower Skeleton into place with two (2) FM screws at this location:

Continue to secure the Skeleton down with one (1) JM screw at this location.

This screw has a countersunk head so it will leave clearance to the Deck Panel we will soon install over it:

Finish securing the Lower Skeleton into place with eight (8) BM screws in these locations:

Connecting the Lower Skeleton Lights

Step C

Connect the plugs of the two longer Deck Panel Lights cables to sockets marked ‘A’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Connect the plug of the shorter Deck Panel Light cables to a socket marked ‘B’ on Saucer PCB 3, as shown:

Turn the Saucer power switch ON and check these new lights are working properly.

If you find that none of the lights work after attaching this Lower Skeleton 1, one or more of the new LEDs may be shorting out on the metal frame. Check each one to make sure they are insulated correctly and not making contact between the LED leads and the Skeleton:

That step ends this stage of the stock build. Below you will find the details on what I changed in this stage as part of my Model Remodel.

Model Remodel

Fitting Lower Skeleton 1

With no stock lighting in the way, I only needed to adjust a few things to fit my Lower Skelton 1.

First, I used a piece of electrical tape to protect the electrical components of my main LED Strip from touching the front edges of these rear Skeletons:

Next, I test fit the Lower Skeleton 1 to the Saucer section per the instructions:

I did find that my outer ring of LED Strip needed to be bent down a little in this area to fit:

The stock wiring for the Impulse Engine and Formation Light, as well as my new wires for the LED Filament all routed neatly through this opening:

I had to delay releasing these stages of Issue 26 because I wanted to make sure our Main Power connection would route the correct way and I needed the large rear Saucer Docking Panel from Stage 110 to arrive to be sure. Once it did, I found the barrel plug connection should come out in a different place. These pictures were taken later on and have been inserted here.

IMPORTANT: You may also notice the wiring to my Saucer Impulse Engines is different in these pictures. That is because I decided, before this Skeleton was installed, to update the lighting inside them to use a red COB LED Strip. Full details can be found on my Saucer Engines page!

I left about 3 inches of wire length exposed, this should be enough to connect it to the Neck section later on:

Then, I secured my Lower Skeleton 1 into place following the instructions. Note that these remaining pictures were taken before I knew where the Main Power cable should be routed!

Here is the result of our Model Remodel changes in this stage:


We are only one Skeleton away from completing the frame of our Saucer section – it will arrive with the next shipment of parts. Until then, we will be attaching more Deck Panels and closing up our Battle Section over the next few stages!

Next Up

Stage 100 – Deck Panel L1-01, Escape Pod Covers/Brackets, Windows/Reflectors, Ventral Phaser Array, Battle Section Windows

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