Back in September 2021, I tried playing with UV Resin to create the saucer panel windows instead of using the hundreds of tiny plastic pieces we get with the model. I absolutely loved the results, but I was already so far along into my Enterprise build that it seemed daunting to take everything apart to replace them. Recently, the idea of using resin windows has taken off in our partwork community, most notably with the popular YouTuber World of Wayne choosing to do the same on his build.

On my build, I decided to wait until I finished the upper saucer before making this decision. However, with my recent completion of Stage 58 and, after sanding nearly a thousand windows, fighting various light leaks, and the final straw being the weird blinking formation lights, I am finally going for it. And, I am not stopping with the windows – I want to create the best Enterprise D model I can with custom lights and sounds!

To accomplish my idea, I have created a plan of attack that will hopefully get my model to where I want it to be. I have then broken my plan down into separate, yet linear, sections so the individual pages do not end up being excessively long. I am hoping to release these sections in groups: Part One, Part Two, etc.:

DISCLAIMER: If you choose to attempt any of these modifications, you assume all risks thereof. I just wanted to share my experiences here. Neither Fanhome, nor myself, are responsible for any damages that may occur.

The Parts

    • Electronics
    • Lighting
    • Resin Windows
    • Paint
    • Tools
    • 3D Prints
    • Miscellaneous

The Plan


    • Clear the reflector panels
    • Limit light to window areas only
    • Diffuse the panels
  • WINDOWS (Upper Saucer)
    • Use UV resin to create the windows
    • Use accurate lit windows pattern
    • Paint/color the windows


  • WINDOWS (Bridge/Deck 2)
    • Modify Bridge lighting parts
    • Use accurate lit windows pattern
    • Paint the windows
    • Add Nav Beacon light
    • Upper Saucer
    • Minimizing panel gap light leaks
    • Disassembly
    • Replace Beacon Lights
    • Replace Bussard Lights
    • Replace Warp Field Lights
    • Wire to Ribbon Cable


There was so much to share about Arduino that I have broken these down into their own pages:


    • Disassembly
    • Use UV resin to create the Windows
    • Painting the Window patterns
    • Lighting/Wiring the Neck
      • Replace Formation Lights
      • Replace Photon Torpedo Light
      • Add Nav Beacon Light
      • Replace Window Lights
    • Reassembly
      • Saucer Power Connection
    • Impulse Engines
    • Windows
    • Formation Lights
    • Nav Beacons
    • Warp Nacelles
    • Neck Section
    • Separation Detection

The custom LCARS mobile app that you will see in this video will be covered in a later section!


    • Wiring Diagram
    • Connections
      • MOSFET
      • HC-05 
      • DFPlayer Mini
      • Power
      • USB
      • LEDs
      • Speakers
    • Playing Audio
      • Audio Files
      • Player Hardware
        • AdaFruit
        • DFRobot
      • Speakers
      • Connecting the Player
        • Voltage Dividers
      • Controlling the Player
      • Timing Sounds to Events
        • Pull-Down Resistors

Future Parts

    • Bluetooth Control
      • Classis Bluetooth
      • Bluetooth Low Energy


Coming Soon!
    • MIT App Inventor
    • Extensions
    • Graphics
    • Block Code 
Coming Soon!
    • Use UV resin to create the windows
    • Painting the Window patterns
    • Speaker Grilles
Coming Soon!
    • Use UV resin to create the windows
    • Painting the Window patterns
    • Wiring the Warp Nacelles
Coming Soon!
    • Saucer vs Stardrive
    • Design
    • Construction
    • Wiring
    • Power Supply
Coming Soon!

Next Section

DISASSEMBLY – Tearing the upper Saucer section down

12 thoughts on “MODEL REMODEL”

    1. I am too! Wayne and I talk quite a bit, so we will be doing a lot of the same things. I hope your model turns out great!

    1. The current plan is to design a custom base to hold the Stardrive via the 15mm square post, but it would be hollow to allow wiring to run up inside of it. A cable will be run up through the neck and connect power to the Saucer via a 5.5mm barrel plug connector. When the Saucer is separated, I will use a barrel plug extension cable to run from the Saucer to a barrel socket installed on the base. I will have to come up with a stand to hold the Saucer on its own.

  1. I will NEVER be able to do any of this, my model will live through yours. Much power to you!! Great talent!

    If you ever decide to package all this for purchase, you have your first customer here.

  2. Thank you for publishing all these steps. You have inspired me to do this to my model and to start learning with the Arduino. I am not trying to just copy your code but to actually learn and understand it. It is challenging but fun at the same time. If you have some time to look at my code and help me debug it I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thank you again.

  3. Awesome work! Even my girlfriend, who’s neither a modeller or treckie was impressed.

    Did you consider used an addressable led panel for the lighting? Then windows could be lit individually. I’m worried about light bleed.

    1. Thank you! There are over 920 windows on the upper saucer alone. I didn’t even want to consider lighting them individually. Light bleed can be handled in a few different ways. I used tape and putty which seemed to work OK.

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