This page is part of my Model Remodel series of articles.
DISCLAIMER: If you choose to attempt any of these modifications, you assume all risks thereof. I just wanted to share my experiences here. Neither Fanhome, nor myself, are responsible for any damages that may occur.
I was asked if I could put a parts list together for everything I am using to remodel my 1:900 scale Enterprise D partwork build, so here we go. This list will change over time as I work through the modifications, so I will do my best to keep it up to date:
Electronics
- 2x Arduino Uno *may need an Arduino Nano for the Stardrive section (Amazon)
- Elegoo Arduino Starter Kit for the IR Remote Control and Receiver (Amazon)
- OONO GPIO Screw Terminal Block (Amazon)
- 2x HC-05 Bluetooth Module (Amazon)
- HM-10 Bluetooth Module (Amazon)
- DFRobot DFPlayer Mini (DFRobot)
- 2x 3 Watt 4Ω Speakers (Amazon)
- Five-Pack of N-Channel MOSFET Boards (Amazon)
- ¼ Watt Assorted Resistors Kit (Amazon)
- Magnetic Reed Switch (Amazon)
- 2-pin JST PH Pre-Wired Plugs (Digikey)
- 4-pin JST PH Pre-Wired Plugs (Digikey)
- 26AWG 2-Wire Cabling (Amazon)
- 26AWG RGB Ribbon Cable (Amazon)
- 18AWG Pre-Wired 5.5mm Barrel Plug Connectors (Amazon)
- 2.54 mm Female Pin Headers (Amazon)
- USB Type-B Extension Cable (Amazon)
Lighting
- 2x 5VDC LED Strips Daylight White 1 meter for the windows (Amazon)
- 2x 5VDC LED Strips Blue 1 meter for the nacelle grilles (Amazon)
- 4x Red 3mm Round Breathing LEDs for the Bussard Collectors (eBay)
- 2x Red 3mm Round Steady LEDs for the Bussard Collectors (Amazon)
- 7x Pre-Wired Micro LED Pre-soldered 0402 SMD LEDs for the Nav Beacons (Amazon)
- 8x Red 2x3x4mm Square LEDs for the Port-side Formation Lights (eBay)
- 1x Warm White 2x3x4mm Square LED for the Forward Formation Light (eBay)
- 8x Green 2x3x4mm Square LEDs for the Starboard-side Formation Lights (eBay)
- 1x Orange 2x3x4mm Square LED for the Torpedo Launcher (eBay)
- 2x Blue 2x3x4mm Square LEDs for the Deflector Dish (eBay)
- 1mm Plastic End Glow Fiber Optic (Amazon)
Windows
- Solarez Pro Roadie Kit or 0.5oz Bottle of Solarez Thin-Hard Resin *the smaller bottles are easier to squeeze (Amazon)
- 2.0oz Bottle of Solarez Thin-Hard Resin as we will need more then 0.5oz (Amazon)
- UV Resin Tape (Amazon)
- 12mm Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves (Amazon)
- Plastic Dental Picks (Amazon)
- Solarez High-Output UV Flashlight or similar (Amazon)
- UV Safety Glasses (Amazon)
Paint
- Vallejo Model Air Black 71.057 or Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black (Amazon)
- Vallejo Model Air White 71.001 (Amazon)
- Krylon Frosted Window Finish (Amazon)
Tools
- Sprue Cutters (Amazon)
- Hobby Knife (Amazon)
- Sanding Sticks (Amazon)
- Pin Vise Drill (Amazon)
- Razor Saw (Amazon)
- Plastic Clay Modeling Tools (Amazon)
- Needle Files (Amazon)
- Soldering Iron and related accessories such as solder, flux, etc. (Amazon)
3D Prints
If you plan to 3D print the custom electronics mounts I have designed, you will need some kind of 3D printer or have access to one.
Miscellaneous
- Super Glue (Amazon)
- 2″x2″ Clear Plastic Boxes to hold removed screws (Amazon)
- 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to strip paint (Amazon)
- Colored Electrical Tape (Amazon)
- Painter’s Tape (Amazon)
- Aluminum Tape (Amazon)
- Black Sharpies (Amazon)
- Colored Brush Sharpies (Amazon)
- Wooden Toothpicks/Cocktail Sticks (Amazon)
- Scotch Tape (Amazon)
- Heat-Shrink Tubing (Amazon)
- UHU Tac PROPower Adhesive Putty or Blu Tack to seal light leaks (Amazon)
- Removable Glue Dots (Amazon)
- Liquid Electrical Tape (Amazon)
- Cotton Swabs (Amazon)
Next Section
DISASSEMBLY– Tearing the upper Saucer section down
this is very helpful thank you
I was looking into doing this build and noticed the 26AWG RGB ribbon cable is unavailable at the moment. I see plenty of 22AWG available. Is there any concerns about using it in place of the 26AWG? Or would mixing different gauge sizes have issues?
Any reasonable 4-wire cable would work as it does not have to carry a lot of current, however 22AWG is thicker and may not fit inside the hull as well.
I ended up getting multiple colors of single 26awg tinned copper wire, figured I could use some heat shrink tubing in places where space allows to bind them together so its not so messy. Fingers crossed it wont cause any problems
What have you decided for the power supply? What’s a good one I can use for testing purposes while going through the build? Thanks.
I will use an AC/DC wall adapter with 5VDC regulated output, but amperage is not known just yet. I am guessing about 5A, but this could change.